on-tour.ch | Einmal rund um die Welt

Nicaragua & Costa Rica

Auf Facebook würde man die Beziehung zwischen Costa Rica und Nicaragua wohl mit “es ist kompliziert” betiteln, und diese Bezeichnung passt eigentlich auch hervorragend zum Grenzübertritt zwischen den beiden Ländern. Nach langem Anstehen an diversen Schaltern in der Hitze des rund einen Kilometer langen Grenzbereichs erreichten wir dann doch noch das Hoheitsgebiet Nicaraguas. Wir haben im Vorfeld viel positives über dieses Land gehört, welches uns oft als “neues” Costa Rica angepriesen wurde, ohne jedoch vom Tourismus überlaufen zu sein. Entsprechend hoch waren unsere Erwartungen an dieses Land, in welchem wir zuerst die Ortschaft San Juan del Sur aufsuchten. Das an der Pazifikküste gelegene Städtchen ist allerdings in erster Linie ein Ausgangspunkt für Surfer auf der Jagd nach wilden Wellen und für Damen, bei denen ebensolche Surfer ins Beuteschema passen. Uns konnte das entsprechend sehr touristische San Juan del Sur nicht begeistern, weshalb wir schon bald in Richtung Isla Ometepe weiterzogen.

Die Insel auf dem Nicaraguasee – dem grössten Binnensee Zentralamerikas – beheimatet zwei Vulkane und ist bekannt für die wunderschöne, teils kaum berührte Landschaft. Beim Eintreffen auf der Insel nach einer kurzweiligen Überfahrt wollte sich die entspannte Inselstimmung jedoch nicht gleich einstellen, zu aufdringlich waren die Vertreter diverser Tourenagenturen, Restaurants und Übernachtungsmöglichkeiten. nicaragua_a07Richtig geniessen konnten wir die Isla Ometepe erst, als wir uns mit zwei Rollern eindeckten um die Insel auf diese Art zu erkundschaften – zumindest bis das erste Gefährt nach rund 10km den Dienst quittierte. Glücklicherweise geschah dies ausgerechnet vor dem Sohn des Vermieters unserer Roller, welcher uns unmittelbar ein Ersatzfahrzeug organisieren konnte; Die Welt ist klein – die Isla Ometepte noch ein ganzes Stück kleiner. Nach diesem Unterbruch sollten uns allerdings nichts mehr bremsen und so konnten wir an die abgelegensten und schönsten Plätze der Insel gelangen, stets am Fusse des Vulkans Conception, der aufgrund seiner Form und dem fehlenden Gipfel – welcher an ein geköpftes Frühstücksei erinnert – den kindlichen Vorstellungen eines Vulkans sehr nahe kommt. Nebst dem Bad in einem natürlichen Schwimmbad gehört die Landschaft um die Laguna Charco Verde mit den freilebenden Affen zu den Highlights der Insel.

Wieder auf dem Festland angekommen ging unsere Reise weiter nach Granada, wo wir beim Eintreffen im Hostel mal wieder unsere Tischtennisfähigkeiten unter Beweis stellen wollten. Der Besitzer des Hostels erkannte die Ernsthaftigkeit in diesem Unterfangen und stellte dem Sieger sechs Gratis Bier in Aussicht und liess uns auch an seinem Montagsritual, dem Leeren einer Tequila-Flasche, teilhaben. Nicht nur die kostenlose Erhöhung des Alkoholgehalts in unserer Blutumlaufbahn war Grund dafür, dass wir uns in diesem gemütlichen Hostel so wohl fühlten, dass wir der Besichtigung der schönen Stadt vergleichsweise wenig Zeit schenkten. Die Treue zum Hostel wurde mit einer kostenlosen Tour zu einer Finca belohnt, wo wir uns mit Mandarinen frisch ab Baum eindecken konnten.   

Nach unserem Aufenthalt in Granada ging es per Bus weiter in Richtung Norden nach Leon, einer prächtigen Stadt, in welcher gefühlt an jeder zweiten Ecke eine Kirche in den Himmel ragt. Ob diese Gotteshäuser in erster Linie dazu gebaut wurden, um vor dem Volcano Boarding um göttlichen Beistand zu beten, ist nicht überliefert.nicaragua_c07 Ob mit oder ohne Segen von ganz oben machten wir uns auf in Richtung Vulkan Cerro Negro, welchen wir mit erstaunlicher Leichtigkeit bestiegen, um ihn wenig später auf einem besseren Holzbrett wieder hinunterzurasen. Die Rekordgeschwindigkeit von über 90 km/h konnten wir nicht ganz erreichen, schnell genug um richtig Spass zu haben war es jedoch allemal.

Unsere nächste Unterkunft befindet sich rund 20km entfernt von Leon am pazifischen Ozean. Das Hostel direkt am Strand von Las Peñitas ist eine Oase der Gemütlichkeit, in welcher man abends aus bester Perspektive beobachten kann, wie sich die Sonne am Horizont als riesiger Feuerball verabschiedet und den Himmel in knalligen Farben erleuchten lässt. Da der Strand auch bei Surfern sehr beliebt ist, liessen wir es uns nicht nehmen, unser Glück auf den Wellen des Pazifiks zu versuchen. Es stellte sich schnell heraus, dass das Talent in dieser Disziplin sehr ungleichmässig an uns beide verteilt wurde. Während die Surferin bereits einige Wellen stehend meisterte, wurde es für den Surferboy eine bessere Schwimmübung.

Nach einer kurzen Rückkehr nach Granada, bei welcher wir etwas mehr von der Stadt besichtigen konnten, folgte bereits unsere letzte Station in Nicaragua. Der kristallklare See der Laguna Apoyo ist umgeben von einer grünen Hügellandschaft und lädt zum Schwimmen, Kajakfahren und zum süssen Nichtstun ein. Ein würdiger Abschluss unseres Aufenthalts in einem Land, in welches wir vielleicht mit einer etwas zu romantischen Vorstellung eingereist sind und welches wir erst nach einer gewissen Anlaufzeit so richtig lieb gewonnen haben.

Am nächsten Tag trafen wir nach einer rund achtstündigen Reise in der Nähe von Samara ein, wo wir zwei Nächste in einem sehr familiären Hostel in Strandnähe verbrachten, bevor wir via San José nach Quepos reisten, um den nahegelegenen Nationalpark Manuel Antonio zu besuchen. Schon bei der Busfahrt nach Quepos bekamen wir einen Einblick in die spannende Tierwelt Costa Ricas. Beim Überqueren eines Flusses sahen wir zum ersten Mal in unserem Leben freilebende Krokodile und waren froh, diesen eindrücklichen Kreaturen nicht all zu nahe gekommen zu sein, wenngleich wir uns über einen Fotostop doch gefreut hätten. nicaragua_g04Die Tiere im Nationalpark Manuel Antonio wirkten vergleichsweise wenig bedrohlich – vielleicht weil wir uns gekonnt vor den Schlangen versteckt hielten. Der Park befindet sich an einer schönen Lage und ist nebst der eindrücklichen Tier- und Pflanzenwelt auch für die traumhaften Strände bekannt und lockt entsprechend viele Touristen und Einheimische an, wodurch der Park teilweise stark bevölkert ist. Im ersten Abschnitt des Parks begleitete uns ein Tourguide und überraschte uns immer wieder mit Tieren, welche wir mit unseren ungeschulten Augen niemals entdeckt hätten. Im zweiten Abschnitt des Parks, welchen deutlich weniger Besucher aufsuchen und wo der Geräuschpegel entsprechend tiefer ist, entdeckt man auch als Laie einige der Parkbewohner.

Am Abend vor unserer Abreise nach Mexiko kam es in der Hauptstadt San José zu einem Wiedersehen mit unseren Freunden aus Schweden, welche wir an gleicher Stelle vor rund drei Wochen kennenlernen durften. Gemeinsam blickten wir bei dem ein oder anderen Glas Rotwein auf eine tolle Zeit zurück und hoffen auf ein baldiges Treffen in Mexiko, Göteburg oder Neuenkirch.

 

 

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